Guanxi

Guanxi is a Chinese term for connections. It is how things get done. Most laws in China are flexible if you have the right friends and the right amount of money in the right places. These carefully orchestrated relationships take years to develop and are the grease that moves things through the copious amounts of red tape that binds business and government initiatives.

Recently the grey cloud of pollution hanging over to Shanghai has been getting to me so a friend and I decided to take a trip to nearby Hanzhou. Hanzhou is another several million strong city with a rich history (Marco Polo called it the most beautiful city in the world) that I had never heard of before coming. We went to see the infamous West Lake and perhaps hike through some tea fields.

Upon arriving we quickly realized that West Lake was not the natural escape the two of us Oregonians craved. There were people everywhere, noisy golf carts guiding tours; cement and vendors and taxis everywhere. This feeling was cemented when a seemingly nice park area quickly disappeared as we looked around and noticed the speakers droning out a dull melody while masked workers sprayed pesticide on the grass.

“Let’s get out of here! NOW!”

Yet just a 10 minute taxi ride away we found ourselves peacefully alone, climbing terraces covered with tea trees. Trudging through the mud we found the peace and nature that we were looking for. For the first time in awhile I felt a bit of quiet. It was wonderful.





Now what was that bit about guanxi? Well on the way down we stumbled past a beautiful garden nestled into the foothills. It was sounded by a creatively designed stone wall that had circular entrances. The attendants were perfectly dressed in traditional Chinese outfits, the men in all black and the women in red dresses. The mist in the air made the place feel dream like. We tromped on in, our shoes full of mud and started looking around.

As we approached we walked through a parking lot full of Audis, BMWs and Mercedes Benzes. We hadn’t got more than a few feet before one of the attendants approached us and began speaking rapidly. Luckily my friend speaks decent Chinese and we found out we were actually at a restaurant.

No, we couldn’t get a cup of tea, this is reservations only. Yes, we can walk around. Well, don’t mind if I do.

The attendant guided us through the gardens and very politely made sure we stayed in the appropriate places. Soon small pagodas appeared ducked into the hillsides and surrounded by flowers, each one holding an individual dining party. This is wear guanxi happens. Behind these doors friendships were being confimed, decisions were being made and baijou (Chinese liquor) was being drunk. Suddenly everything looked different, our hillside garden is a bastion of power. These pagodas held China’s elite. We looked at the giant fish in the river that ran through the pond and admired the plants. The elite have good taste.

I’m still looking for a cup of tea.

Interesting Things to do in Nanjing

10) Go to the Purple Mountain and see the mausoleum to Sun Yet Sen. Not all that strange until you get crowded into a tiny room with a hundred people and shuffle in a circle around the coffin.

9) Check out the insanely crowded Fuzi Miao. You will never get more than a foot of personal space. But they do have a great selection of men's clothing.

8) Get bubble tea. Except it is like a fruit cocktail. Be prepared to suck noodles through a straw with you tea.

7) Check out the amphitheater at the Purple Mountain. I played some music and was then lucky enough to have a Chinese man show me what it was really made for and recite poetry in a booming voice.

6) Watch Kung Fu Panda.

5) Go to the center of the Fuzi Miao and watch a mascot celebration. 15 mascots, a tiger, a bunny, a turtle, a cow, pretty much all you can think of leading a congo line. All this surrounded by an enormous group of stoic people who look as if they are watch a ballet.

4) Debate the authenticity of an enormous piece of petrified wood and a crowded shop.

3) Watch Kung Fu Panda again.

2) Catch an amazing Chinese band with matching plaid pants and hawaiian shirts and a rotating cast of singers. All held down by Mel, the best Chinese bass player in the Universe.

1) Get in a taxi, hold on tight and get ready for a wild ride!

Shanghai Cooking

I don’t cook in Shanghai. Once in a while I’ll fry up some veggies but in general I can walk across the street with a bowl from my house, get it filled with some delicious local fried food and be back on my couch within about 5 minutes. It costs about $1 US. So, I don’t cook.

This morning, as I lay in bed, I faced a dilemma. I had to get up and make a quick move if I was to get the delicious breakfast crepe available only in the mornings. I would describe this crepe to you in detail but it is such a thing of beauty it really deserves its own post. Still, this seemed like far too much work. I could go buy eggs and make breakfast… uggghhh. I could go to the fancy restaurant down the street. Yet I’d already exceeded my limit of bourgeoisie meals for the week and I just wanted something simple.

As I pondered this I was hit with the happy realization in the kitchen, hidden away under unused pans, I long ago purchased oatmeal and honey! Perfect! I happily entered my kitchen only to find my honey mysteriously missing. After scouring my entire house for the honey I was left one option, creativity. Upon examination, my fridge offered three options, italian salad dressing, hot peppers or blueberry jam. As I open up the oatmeal and blueberry jam I notice the oatmeal smells salty. Strange, but whatever. But as I stir it becomes clear that this is oatmeal that is filled with corn. Kind of a porridge. Something I would never have bought intentionally, if I were capable of reading all Chinese labels.

Surprisingly, blueberry corn porridge is pretty good! As they say, necessity is the mother of invention.