Tuesday, August 12, 2008

First Day in Shanghai

Before leaving for Shanghai I stopped into Powell’s Book Store with a friend. I was extolling her on the wisdom of Siddhartha: when I finished raving and rambling she decided to buy the book. So here I was in Powell’s, a place that is near impossible to leave without buying a book, and I see the brand new, shiny and bright, Lost on Planet China sitting in the best-seller rack. Being rather bored of travel books (ie lonely planet) this book fit my criteria of being about China and also engagingly written. Powell’s worked its magic and we both left with new reading material.

This book was my plane flight reading and between my long naps I would eagerly flip the pages looking for glimpses of what might await. By chapter two the author had expounded thoroughly upon the difficulty of the Chinese language, the horrific pollution, the deadly traffic laws, the frequency of phlegm filled spit flying through the air, public defecation, line cutting, disease, and a host of other concerns. These came in no particular order and each page held a new critique that left wondering what exactly I was doing on a plane to China.

My first evening was a hazy, jet-lagged and uneventful. The school I’m working for is owned by a luxury golf resort (weird huh) and for my first two months I can stay at room at the course for free. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on your perspective) the resort is more than a hour outside of town . After reading about the horrors of Chinese cities for the past 18 hours I considered staying in my air-conditioned, green and lush, golf course resort. I don’t even golf but, I admit, I was tempted to stay inside and read about how bad China is as opposed to actually experiencing it myself.

Instead I threw the book in my bag, as if I hadn’t had enough, hailed a Taxi and off I went. I arrived in downtown Shanghai and to see a lightly clouded, almost pollution free, blue sky on a comfortable day. I found myself in the old French Concession and it was pleasantly populated, with wide streets that were clean and nice. I met a German friend and a German restaurant and settled down to a Rueben Sandwich and a German beer served by a Chinese waitress wearing a traditional German dress(See pics.) Where is this China I’d been reading about?

We decided to take the Metro the one stop to the very heart of the city, the People’s square. Here I thought for sure I would experience the craziness of overpopulation, the subway to the center of a thriving metropolis of more than 18 million. Yet again, I was surprised. Yes, the car was full, but I’ve been on way crazier crowded trains on Mexico City.

Maybe it was a good day. Maybe the Olympics are cleaning all large Chinese cities for a few weeks. Maybe in 3 weeks it’ll all be over. But I hope not! I’m hoping the China I’ve been reading about is a place I can explore on the weekend and gather a handful crazy tales of eating sheep’s brain and dodging spit. Until then I’m happy to live the Shanghai I found on my first day.





Saturday, August 9, 2008

Goodnight US

I watched the Opening Ceremonies of the Olympic. And it hit me. Tomorrow I will be in China! The thousands of dancers and the sheer magnitude of the event gave me the goosebumps. China is so damn big! How exactly will I swim in this ocean of people. The goosebumps come back whenever I think about it.

Now I'm packing at 2:30 AM, leaving in less then 5 hours. I've spent all week partying with my amazing friends and family (I'll miss you guys) and pushing with a mad rush to finish my CD. I'm calm and alert. I usually this way before I travel. I'm ready to experience the new and unknown.

Shanghai here I come!

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

The Olympics

I arrive in China on August 9th, one day after the Olympics start. I’m flirting with the idea of trying to go. There are numerous problems with this flirtation.

1) It will be my first week in China and I should be looking for a place to live and preparing for my new job. Responsible and boring but true.

2) I don’t have Olympic tickets. And I’ve heard they are hard to get. And sneaking in to an event where the consequence is the Chinese legal system looses some of the romantic rebel sheen that it has here in the US.

3) I will be flying into Shanghai, which is an 11 hour train ride (according to one google search) from Beijing.

4) I don’t know anybody so this will be a solo, flying by the seat of my pants adventure.

Clearly it is not the smart decision to go. But it is the OLYMPICS. And they are in China. This whole clash of competition, materialism and excess with the communist values of simplicity and functionality is guaranteed to be interesting.

Let me know with the olympics poll.